Showing posts with label Clothing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clothing. Show all posts

Monday, January 6, 2020

Following the Armies: Contemporary Images of Military Women and Children in German Central Europe

A reenactor portraying a Prussian Soldatenfrau
late in the Seven Years War

Dear Reader,

Today, I would like to present several contemporary images of women who followed Germanic Armies during the Eighteenth Century. These women, often the wives of soldiers, traveled alongside the armies of Frederick the Great and Maria Theresa. The first four images come from the collection produced by Johann Christian Becher, Wahrhaftige Nachricht derer Begebenheiten drawn during the Seven Years War.


A Franconian Sutleress, Becher
The first woman, a sutler of some means, wears a red sleeved waistcoat and dark blue jacket and petticoat. Her shoes are obscured, but she wears a round, shallow-crowned felt hat with a red ribbon. Her cart/wheelbarrow contains a cask, bags, and she is pictured with a "Coffee Machine" according to a different version of the same image.  The cookware is not blackened. 

An Austrian Sutleress and her family 
There are some similar elements of dress in this image, showing a black felt round hat, likewise tied with a red ribbon (both are knotted on the right of the wearers' crown). This woman has three children, two walk barefoot, and the third is kept tied around the woman's body. Like the Franconian woman above, this woman wears a dark colored jacket with a bit of red at the sleeves. She appears to have a patterned apron and light colored petticoat with red striping. Her daughter carries a walking stick, bottle, and wine skin or draw-string bag, and has a pink sleeveless top over her shift, a green petticoat, and blue apron. Her son wears a round felt hat, worn knee breeches, and a cream woolen waistcoat. 

A Wuertemberger Soldier's Wife
This woman carries a small child on her head, tied to a basket. She has a straw hat, a long cream-colored woolen or linen frock coat, a black waistcoat, and a white cloth around her neck. Her apron is white with blue floral patterning, and she wears a blue petticoat. She has something strapped to her back and a small keg with a strap. 

A Grenadier's Wife from Mainz, her family and equipment 
This women wears a blue jacket and petticoat, her head is tied in a scarf, and she wears no hat. Her eldest daughter cares for a smaller child on the back of a donkey, in a grey top and petticoat with a light colored neck-cloth and straw hat. The woman appears to have light brown shoes, the daughter wears red shoes. The women leads the donkey and has a walking stick, and what appears to be a linen wallet on her back. 

A French Sutleress and a Hungarian Hussar's wife
The French sutleress (left) wears a brown brunswick or long jacket, what might be a military canteen or a glass bottle, a pink cap, a blue apron and green striped petticoat. The Hungarian woman wears a sleeveless green top, no discernible shirt, a loose head covering underneath a military-style laced cocked hat, a blue hussar's jacket, and a white striped petticoat. Somewhat memorably, she carries a strand of garlic in her right hand, and a chicken or some sort of fowl in her right hand. 

The next few images come from details of the military art of Hyacinth de La Pegna, an  artist who commemorated the Hapsburg victories of the Seven Years War. 


This image shows a Prussian soldier's wife with a blue jacket, red petticoat, and white cap. Her baby, on her back, is swaddled in green cloth. 


This woman, with an orange jacket, white shawl/neck cloth, and white cap wears a red petticoat and has her shirt sleeves tucked into the arms of her jacket. She appears to have some sort of wallet/blanket around her middle, held in her right hand. 


This painting shows Prussian women in states of relative undress as a result of the early morning surprise attack at Hochkirch in 1758. The woman on the right appears to have a white/rose colored cap, and she has her sleeves rolled up, and wears her stays. On the left, a women holds a child in while wearing similar clothing, but appears to have a brown/orange blanket of some sort draped around her. 


This scene, also from the downfall at Hochkirch, appears to show a woman in matching sleeveless top and petticoat fleeing from a tent with a blanket around her middle.  She wears a white cap, and sleeves rolled to above the elbow. 

Pro-Prussian Silesian Woman, surrender of Breslau
This image, taken from a commemorative print of the surrender of Breslau, shows a pro-Prussian Silesian woman, with a dark colored petticoat, light-colored jacket with a light-colored shawl and cap. 
The Begging Soldier's Wife, Daniel Chodowiekci

This image, by Prussian painter Chodowiecki, shows a women with a jacket, two military style cocked hats, a market wallet, some type of leather or linen bag, and a light colored petticoat. As a result of her market wallet, it is difficult to definitively address some of her clothing. 

From the above sources, it is clear that some women wore old or unused cocked hats, and occasionally wore military style coats/jackets. Patterned aprons and blue aprons appear in multiple images, as do petticoats with stripes near the bottom. 

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Thanks for Reading, 


Alex Burns






Tuesday, December 3, 2019

"Plan for the Cloathing of the [Continental] Infantry" by Freiherr de Steuben


Dear Reader,

Today, I am sharing a primary source regarding clothing in the American Continental Army. This is a proposed plan created by Friedrich Wilhelm, Freiherr de Steuben, for clothing the infantrymen of the Continental Army.  Obviously, this plan was never fully adopted by the United States, and shortages continued throughout the war. This plan, however, gives a clear vision for the type of clothing which Continental troops could expect to receive, and also Steuben's view of what the ideal clothing of a soldier consisted of.

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Newburgh, August 14th, 1779

Gentlemen,

...The distribution of cloathing should be made with more regularity. As long as [one] regiment receives shirts, whilst another receives shoes and their stockings, or what is still worse, when a regiment receives 20 hats, another 200, and another none at all, we must not think of having our Army cloathed.

The distribution of cloathing should be made at certain fixed periods in the year.

Whatever the soldier is to receive should be determined. Every article of the cloathing should be valued at a certain rate, he who receives more than his allowed should refund the price of the surplus and he who receives less should have an adequate compensation made to him.

The annexed plan of such an arrangement will make it clear and more sensible to you, and although at first sight it may appear so much an expenditure, yet I dare assert it will prove advantageous and oeconomical to the United States.


Plan
for the Cloathing of the Infantry

Whatever Cloathing the soldiers receive from the states may be reduced to these Heads:

1st. The Necessaries

2nd. The Uniform

3rd. The Small Mounting 

The necessaries of a soldier consist of:

A haversack of calf or goat skin
A Knapsack of Grey linen
A Blanket
A Pair of shoe buckles
A Pair of Knee Ditto
A Stock Ditto
A Clothes Brush
A Pair of Shoe Brushes
A Large Comb                   I  
A Small Tooth Ditto            I
Six needles                        I    [These] Enclosed
Two Oz Blue thread           I > in a leather case
Two Oz White Ditto            I
A Pocket Knife                   I
A Tin Spoon                       I

The Uniform of a Soldier Consists of: 

A Hat
A Pair of Wool Overalls
A Coat
A Leather Stock
A Waistcoat
A Pair of Garters and Buckles
A Pair of Wooll Breeches
A Pair of Woollen Gloves

The Small Mounting Consists of:

Two Shirts                                      I          Once of each Articles
Two Pair Woollen Stockings          I  >       Every Four Months 
A Pair of Shoes                              I

x A Queue Ribbon and One every six months

A Hunting Shirt                            I
A Pair Wool Overalls                   I> Per Year 

The soldiers should receive their necessaries at their first entering in the Regiment
They should receive their Uniform every New Years Day 
Their small mounting should be made at four different parts of the year:

1st Delivery/ Jan 1st
A  shirt, a pair stockings, a par of shoes, a queue ribbon
2nd Delivery/ April 1st
A shirt, a pair of Lin. Overalls, a pair of shoes
3rd Delivery/ June 1st
A Hunting Shirt, A pair of overalls a Queue Ribbon
4th Delivery/ Sept 1st
A shirt, a pair stockings, a pair of shoes 

The soldiers' necessaries always belong to the states, and when a soldier leaves the service
he must be accountable for them to the Regimental paymaster.

The Uniform belongs to the soldier after sixteen months service and when a soldier dies or quits the Regiment before the expiration of that time his uniform must be must be delivered to the paymaster
who will keep it in his store to distribute its  to the soldiers who will arrive in the course of the year.

The small mounting belong to the soldier after four months service, in case of Death or Discharge, but as long as he remains with the Regiment he must account at each review for the following articles:

3 shirts 3 pair stockings 1 pair of shoes 1 hunting shirt
1 pair linen overalls when a recruit enters a regiment from
January to April, inclusive he receives:
His necessaries
His Uniform new and Compleat
2 shirts
2 pair of stockings
1 pair shoes
1 Queue Ribbons

When a recruit enters his Regt from
May to Aug inclusive he receives
His necessaries
A complete Uniform from those in the paymasters' stores
2 shirts
2 pairs of stockings
1 pair of shoes
1 Queue Ribbon

A recruit who enters from September to Jan inclusive receives

His necessaries
A Complete Uniform from the paymaster's [stores]
2 shirts
2 pairs of stockings
1 Pair of shoes
1 Queue Ribbon

Steuben /////
Maj. General[1]

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Thanks for Reading,



Alex Burns




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Steuben Papers, 2:10.